What Style of Tubeless Conversion Should You Actually Do?
There are three ways to convert to tubeless.
Only one of them is the right way. The other two are workarounds — useful, sometimes necessary, but not equal.
If you want fewer blow-offs, less sealant mess, and tyres that actually seat when you’re 30 minutes from the car, choose correctly.
Let’s break them down.
The Proper Way — This is the one we recommend
Who this is for:
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You’ve just bought (or are about to buy) new wheels, rims, or tyres
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Your wheels are tubeless-ready (most modern aftermarket rims are)
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Your wheel brand offers its own tubeless solution
If this is you, you are 90% of the way to tubeless success already. Don’t sabotage it now.
Why this works:
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Tubeless-ready rims have proper bead shelves
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Tubeless tyres have butyl-coated sidewalls that actually seal
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Matched valves sit flush instead of leaking around the base
This setup:
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Seats faster
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Holds pressure longer
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Burps less under load
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Requires less sealant
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Survives real riding, not just Instagram installs
If you have the option to do it this way, do not choose another method.
The Hack Way — It works… until it doesn’t
Who this is for:
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Your rims weren’t designed for tubeless
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You don’t have tubeless tape
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You’ve been given random valves by a mate
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You’re impatient and want to ride today
This is tubeless by force of will.
It can work — and often does — but it relies heavily on:
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Tape quality
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Rim condition
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Tyre fit
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How much you swear during inflation
The reality
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Seating can be painful
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Leaks are common
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Burps under hard cornering are more likely
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Maintenance is higher
This is acceptable if:
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You understand the risks
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You’re willing to re-tape
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You check pressure regularly
This is not a “set and forget” solution.
The Cheapest Way — Last resort, not a recommendation
Who this is for:
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Entry-level wheels
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Dented rims
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Zero budget
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High motivation
This method exists because riders hate tubes that much.
It can get you riding tubeless, but let’s be clear:
You are trading reliability for cost.
Expect:
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More sealant
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More mess
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More air loss
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More rework
If you’re riding aggressively, racing, or heading deep into trails — this is not the setup we’d trust.
Tools You’ll Need (No matter which path you choose)
Some things are non-negotiable.
Essential
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Good tyre levers
Throw out the brittle $5 ones from 2012. Your hands will thank you. -
Inflation device
Compressor > charged pump > CO₂ > floor pump -
Soapy water spray
Helps tyres seat and reveals leaks -
Rags
You will make a mess -
Thumbs of steel
These come from suffering. You already own them.
Recommended
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Valve core remover (or small adjustable wrench)
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Isopropyl alcohol or metho for cleaning
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Sealant syringe (optional but tidy)
Hack & Cheap-specific
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Sharp scissors
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Stanley knife
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Patience
Supplies (This is where most failures happen)
Tape
Tubeless tape is best.
Other tape can work — but adhesion, stretch, and durability vary wildly.
If the tape lifts, your tubeless dream dies with it.
Valves
This matters more than people think.
Rims have different internal profiles:
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Flat
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Dished
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Deep channel
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Brand-specific shapes
Best practice:
Match valve brand to rim brand wherever possible. They’re designed to seal together.
Tyres
Not all tyres are tubeless-ready — even if they say they are.
Proper tubeless tyres:
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Have butyl-coated sidewalls
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Hold air without sweating sealant
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Seat consistently
If you’re unsure, assume cheaper casings will leak more.
Rims
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Most aftermarket rims today are tubeless-ready
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Some OEM and budget rims are not
Non-tubeless rims often:
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Have gaps at the join
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Lack bead lock shelves
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Are harder to seal permanently
UST rims don’t need tape, but they’re rare now.
So… which should you do?
If you can do The Proper Way — do it. It’s safer, cleaner, and cheaper in the long run.
The Hack Way is a temporary solution. The Cheapest Way is survival mode.
Tubeless is brilliant — when done properly.